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Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)

Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)

  • Paperback
  • Author: Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books
  • Release Date: November 2004
  • ISBN-10: 0898867495
  • ISBN-13: 9780898867497
  • List Price: $21.95

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Summaries and Customer Reviews provided by Amazon

Summary

This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude--approximately 5000 meters and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery--and safety--lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process. Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying, rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.

Customer Reviews

Average Rating: Score = 5.0 Score = 5.0 Score = 5.0 Score = 5.0 Score = 5.0

Great skills book!

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

This is a great intstructional manual from the novice to the more experienced. Much better than Freedom of the Hills, which I also own. I also recommend Extreme Alpinism and The Mountaineering Handbook (these are arguably the 3 best books out for the alpinist).

This book is well researched and easy to read

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

I bought this book because I had been out of alpine climbing for 10 years and I wanted to get back into it. The authors are professional mountain guides but more than that, alpine climbing seems to be an integral part of who they are. I picked up a lot of very helpful information that covers everything from training, to equipment and boot selection, to alpine travel and avalanche knowledge. It is very suited to the Sierra Nevada range, where I do most of my climbing. This is the best book I have found on the subject.

Mountain judgment calls are everything!

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

Well, I am completely biased having climbed several times with Kathy. In practice, all her mountain judgment seems so seamless! One minute we're just chatting away and the next we're on an exposed ridgeline for five miles, still calm and collected. It's amazing how much judgment is about the conditions (the mountains and ours), and knowing how to read them correctly. One memorable experience was just killing some time during a complete whiteout, and seeing what was possible with a new GPS gizmo. Anyway, what I've learned from Kathy and this book? How to judge my limits far better than before. It's easy to get overconfident and stop thinking. When I'm alone in the mountains now, I actually pay attention and learn to retreat better. Those mountains will wait for another day -- although the glaciers may not!

good book, well thought out

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

I agree with the reviewers above (below) that this book complements "Freedom of the Hills". In particular it focuses more on the decision making process than most books of these types. Although I've never traveled with either of the authors, they seem like lovely people and the stories they tell flesh them out for the reader. They also answered a question I had when I wrote them via email. In all, a solid book that it would do to put on your bookshelf.

Excellent book for anyone venturing into the mountains

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

The section on Common Problems with Decision Making was alone worthy the purchase!I could identify many issues and suggestions with my own experiences. Very well laid out book and a must read for anyone venturing into the sport of climbing, or those of us who wish to brush up on skills and ponder ways of continuous learning no matter the level of prior experience. One of definite climbing "bibles" written by people who do it for a living and are prepared to share their experiences and knowledge. Five stars IMHO!!! Happy climbing!