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Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)

Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)

  • Paperback
  • Author: Andy Tyson, Molly Loomis
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books
  • Release Date: May 2006
  • ISBN-10: 089886772X
  • ISBN-13: 9780898867725
  • List Price: $18.95

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Summaries and Customer Reviews provided by Amazon

Summary

When your climbing team is in trouble on the mountain - this is how to get yourself out of a jam without calling the rescue teams. This title includes self-rescue procedures for teams of two - the most common climbing party size. It covers techniques equally effective on snow rock and ice. It utilises the gear which climbers carry in their rack, and includes 40 one-page rescue scenarios and solutions for analysis.

Customer Reviews

Average Rating: Score = 4.5 Score = 4.5 Score = 4.5 Score = 4.5 Score = 4.5

First rate information

Rating: Score = 3 Score = 3 Score = 3 Score = 3 Score = 3

This book does a great job of teaching all the minimalist tricks climbers use to complete the tasks industrial rope workers would use mechanical devices for.
While most of the information will be familiar to experienced rope workers there are a few bits of information which are real gems. It belongs on every climbers/rat's bookshelf for this reason.
Criticisms:
1) The illustrations are great, the pictures are useless and as a result some knot techniques are indecipherable.
2) There are many scenarios used to hone your skills, seems more like filler.
3) On a artistic note the reverse gender specific format is so contrived and over the top that by the time I was finished the book I was sick of the authors sexism! I suppose using exclusionary language is an attempt at revenge but in the case of all the rescues it suggests women spend a lot of time needing rescue. If you're a male expect to roll your eyes a lot! Also there was some unprofessional jargon, such as differentiating anchors as being "bomber" or not. oh well, thats climbers for ya.

Should be on the shelves of any serious, regular climber.

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

How best to respond when your climbing team gets into difficulty? First, read CLIMBING SELF-RESCUE: IMPROVISING SOLUTIONS FOR SERIOUS SITUATIONS from cover to cover. It holds the keys to using the team's abilities to effect self-rescue, pairing illustrated techniques with insights on using them in all conditions, from rock to snow and ice. Nearly thirty rescue scenarios are outlined with solutions involving as few as two climbers. No other book holds the solution-oriented scenarios of CLIMBING SELF-RESCUE: it should be on the shelves of any serious, regular climber.

Diane C. Donovan
California Bookwatch

Best Self-Rescue Book Money Can Buy

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

I concur with the previous review. Excellent detail and a plethora of photographs to illustrate each point. This book includes a section on ascending out of a glacier crevasse as well. Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis have done a lot of research and work to put this book together to include such detail as a flow chart for you to methodically determine which rescue scenario to persue. Not only do they give qualitative data, but they included quantitative data compiled from various sources to help you understand the strengths of knots and their weaknesses as well. 29 rescue scenarios are explored for your better understanding of rescue techniques. If you have Fasulo's book, this will be a great addition to your rescue book collection. If you are just getting into rock climbing, I strongly advise seeking a mentor and purchasing this book to complement the side of climbing that many people overlook, self-rescue. Practice, practice, practice, then have someone critique your rescue skills.

Essential reading for trad climbers

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

This is currently the best book on self rescue. Tyson and Loomis provide clear instructions that are understandable to climbers new to leading and detailed enough for long-timers. There's a lot of information, so it can be a bit overwhelming, but you can quickly glean the important stuff. The final chapter offers 29 realistic scenarios with discussion on solutions that provide good food for thought.

Like first aid, even if you think you know all this stuff, it's important to refresh your knowledge. This is the definitive text on self rescue that can literally save you when the s**t hits the fan. Get it. Read it!