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From the New York Times perfume critic, a stylish, fascinating, unprecedented insider’s view of an industry and its charismatic characters No journalist has ever been allowed into the ultrasecretive, highly pressured process of originating a perfume. But Chandler Burr, the New York Times perfume critic, spent a year behind the scenes observing the creation of two major fragrances. Now, writing with wit and elegance, he juxtaposes the stories of the perfumes—one created by a Frenchman in Paris for an exclusive luxury-goods house, the other made in New York by actress Sarah Jessica Parker and Coty, Inc., a giant international corporation. We follow Coty’s mating of star power to the marketing of perfume, watching Sex and the City’s Parker heading a hugely expensive campaign to launch a scent into the overcrowded celebrity market. Will she match the success of Jennifer Lopez? Does she have the international fan base to drive worldwide sales?
In Paris at the elegant Hermès, we see Jean Claude Ellena, his company’s new head perfumer, given a challenge: he must create a scent to resuscitate Hermès’s perfume business and challenge le monstre of the industry, bestselling Chanel No. 5. Will his pilgrimage to a garden on the Nile supply the inspiration he needs? The answer lies in Burr’s informative and mesmerizing portrait of some of the extraordinary personalities who envision, design, create, and launch the perfumes that drive their billion-dollar industry.
Another great book by Chandler.
| Customer Rating:  | Chandler Burr is the resident perfume critic for The New York Times. In this capacity he writes regular reviews ("Scent Notes"), which initially strike one as unbelievably precious, but are ultimately kind of engaging. His previous book, "The Emperor of Scent", about the science of smell, was one of the best examples of science writing I've ever read.
This book, an account of the development and launch of two new perfumes, "Lovely" by Coty for Sarah Jessica Parker, and "Jardin sur le Nil" by Hermes, doesn't quite match the brilliance of "The Emperor of Scent", but it is engagingly written and was a very enjoyable read. To some extent, the science writing, which I think is Burr's particular strength, takes a back seat as he describes all of the other facets of product development. Which he does with the same intelligence and wit that characterized his earlier book: his take on the relationships among the various players at Hermes, as well as on SJP's unusual degree of personal involvement in the development of "Lovely" is nuanced and perceptive. Occasionally, Chandler's inner geek takes over, treating the reader to two pages of chemical details. Personally, I found this kind of charming, but other readers might not agree.
A smart, highly readable, account of a subject to which you may not have given much thought. My only caveat would be that, given Chandler's exceptional talent for science writing, I'd love to see him take on something a little more weighty next time around. For example, biotechnology, genetic testing, or pharmaceutical drug development: anyone who can write so vividly about the world of fragrance chemistry could undoubtedly contribute significantly in making these topics more accessible to a general audience. |
Awesome book!
| Customer Rating: | | I purchased the CD version of this book (there are 10 CDs), and had a fantastic time listening to it on the way and back from work. I knew very little about the perfume/cologne industry before buying this book. However, now I actually find it enjoyable to go into department stores and try out different scents. This book is so great because it is a real joy to read (or listen to in my case), and I learned a great deal about a very mysterious industry. I work in marketing, so I found the way that the products are marketed in this industry to be really interesting. I can't help but wonder why the perfume/cologne industry has done such a poor job of educating the public about its products (unlike the wine industry, which has done such a good job). So, read this book (or listen to it) if you really want to open up a whole new realm of your life! |
"Lilac smells like soiled underwear" the author writes,
| Customer Rating:  | and I happen to like lilacs! His nose can't possibly be right all the time, can it? Maybe he just wanted to see if people will actually sniff soiled underwear and compare it with the smell of lilacs. Or, buy a Godiva chocolate bar to see if it really has a hint of "the smell of sh**." Well, I didn't do either one of those scratch n' sniff challenges. Thought about it, but...nah, no thanks! However, the Tonquin musk comparison challenge sounds intriguing; I just don't know where to get the Tonquin musk! ;-)
Anyway, I'm not at all into perfume, but after reading this book, I found myself stopping at perfume counters, spraying test strips and sniffing as many of the perfumes mentioned in the book as I could find. As other reviewers have said, the author has a such a fluid writing style, that he both entertains and educates the reader with wonderful ease; that is, if you like lots of metaphors and similes (I think it would be rather tough to write a book about scents, otherwise).
Years ago, MTV showed a 30-second clip of how JLo was developing her follow-up to Glow; I saw it and I wasn't impressed. JLo didn't seem involved at all with creating the scent: she was sniffing and rejecting fragrance blotters, that was all. The description of how SJP developed the scents for Lovely and Covet couldn't have been written better than her own PR person. Clearly, the author is a fan, and influenced my own positive views about the actress, even though I'm not crazy about the actual scents of Covet or Lovely.
If I hadn't borrowed and read the book, I would not have discovered Jo Malone's great scents at my local Nordstrom's. Now, I'm saving my money to purchase a bottle of Hermes' Un Jardin sur le Nil. But, then again, if it's true that 'Miss Dior' "smells like the armpit of a woman who has not bathed in a week," I can just save my money (and water) and go fragrance-free for the rest of my life. Isn't that good to know? |
As much about creativity as perfume
| Customer Rating: | +1 to the other positive reviewers; I didn't find the story wordy, and I can see that adding more details about the perfumes mentioned in the epilogue would only have delayed the release of this book. Burr probably has another one in him...
Sidebar: My nose has never worked very well; attributed to a bad fall when I was a child. I buy perfume by the box and marketing package and based on response, seem to be getting it right.
Therefore, this story is about a world that's alien to me. I loved Chandler's faith-in-opinion (smells like ****). Mostly, I read this book as a documentation of the creative process, at least as expressed through a commercial product. It's hard to find artists who can speak clearly about how they get from idea to finished product; the big decisions that get made early and the increasingly constrained and refined adjustments along the way; the contribution of deadline and budget to the final product; the changes in thinking and ability that occur across a lifetime.
Four stars not five because it didn't change my life and the library can have their copy back. However, I did find myself buying Burr's Emperor of Scent when it crossed my path at a local used bookstore.
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A Fascinating Journey Into The World of Luxury Fragrance
| Customer Rating: | I enjoyed this book tremendously. It was definitely not a page-turner for me. Rather, I savored it steadily over several weeks. Still, rest assured that this will remain one of my favorite books. By the time I was done with it, I had a huge admiration for both the author and his subjects - both American and French. I attribute this to the skillful writing and crystal-clear honesty of the author. I thought it was wonderful to see discussions end with complete candor when things went "off-record", as well as full disclosure when sensitive topics and "hot" documents were discussed. I admire Burr's journalistic integrity, which is unfortunately an increasingly rare thing these days.
Before reading this book, I was, I will admit, a bit of a Francophobe, with no particular desire to ever set foot there again. Not even finished with the book, my wife and I began planning a family trip there. This is purely a product of the author's sensitive but unforced treatment of his French subjects. As noted in other reviews, he takes pains to provide complete yet flowing translations of French dialogue, which actually makes for a wonderful, engaging read. Many authors would toss out the French with an air of linguistic superiority and force the reader to sink or swim. Instead, Burr clearly wants everybody to get on board the train before it leaves, and it works. Whether it was the author or the editor or both, my hat is off to them.
The book teaches - almost unbeknownst to the reader - an enormous amount about fragrances. As a scientist, I can assure you that he does a marvelous job with the scientific aspects, and that he made even the "old hat" science interesting to me. The history, economics, marketing, and politics of fragrances - about which I know far less - was even more fascinating, and - I have no doubt - just as accurate. And the really neat thing is that he made it so damn interesting. I could almost feel the starched lab coats and smell the test strips, and I wanted to be there.
To my fellow fragranauts (or "fragra-nuts"), I offer this. Before reading this book, I knew next to nothing about the Hermès line of fragrances ("Hermès? The scarf people? You mean, they do fragrances?"). By the time I was done, I was *positive* that I would take a liking to "Terre d'Hermès". Sure enough, when I tested about a dozen newer fragrances in Sephora, I walked out with Terre d'Hermès. If you're a fragrance fetishist like me, this book will talk to you. |
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